North Shore News reviews our Brew Cruise!

North Shore taster tray of brews
A taster-tray of golden deliciousness

Brian Smith from North Shore News came to visit us and take our Brew Cruise where we visit two local microbreweries and then return to our shop for one more pint on the house.  We had a great time showing Brian around and we’re glad he had a great time too.  Check out his review as well as some great suggestions where to visit, eat, drink, and play when you visit Portland!

We are always glad to offer suggestions as well and have a comprehensive map of Portland if you want to explore some of Portlands 80+ breweries, distilleries, and wineries on your own.  You are also welcome to book yourself on one of our Brew Cruises leaving daily at 2pm by clicking on the “Book Now” button on our homepage.

Cheers!

Theft-Proof Your Bike Parts

Mike’s Bike Advice

Our bikes are vulnerable companions! Every part and piece is quick release, always ready to be liberated. We are forced to leave bikes out on the street all day (and occasionally, all night). So you ask, “How should I best prepare my bike to be left outside?” Well, we’ve got Mechanic Mike here to tell you his favorite approaches to theft-proof  and secure his bike components and accessories when he doesn’t have the option to store it safely inside. He is going to tell you about his favorite products and tricks to keep your wheels, lights, computers and saddles from disappearing into the night.

We regularly hear from disappointed bike-owners down here in Downtown Portland–a city known for its risky bicycle environment. Wheels are the most expensive part that might wander away while your bike frame is properly locked to a bike rack. We will start with ways to make sure you’ll be able to roll home after work, after dinner or after your night out.

Hub Locks

Hub locks are a great option for securing your wheels around town. There are a few brands that we carry here at Cycle Portland depending on your budget and desired security. 

“Expensive but Secure”

Theft-Proof Pinhead SkewersThe Pinhead Security Pack is an option with individualized keys for the highest level of protection. Like your house or Kryptonite key, this unique key offers the most security for your wheelset. A pair of Pinhead security skewers will cost you a bit more than $50, but give you the most confidence that someone isn’t working your wheels loose while you’re at work. So if you often lock up outside in theft prone areas or just want to protect those hand-built wheels, we would be happy to install these on your steed today.

“Economical Security”

IMG_1575HubLox offers a pair of anti-theft skewers that utilize a specialized key shared with all other HubLox. This means that a thief would have to be carrying a specialized HubLox key to take your wheel (unlikely, but possible.) Much easier to get ahold of than your individual Pinhead key, but still offering a pretty good confidence that your bike is secure. No one is going to remove these skewers with an adjustable wrench. Just make sure your shop has a copy of the key for any repair that might require they remove the wheels. 

Hublox Triangle Skewer
 (Here is the triangle key interface)

“No Special Key to Carry”

Halo Anti-Theft Skewer

Halo Hex Bolt Skewers are Mike’s personal favorite for keeping our rental single speed bikes safe. These can be installed with a simple hex bolt meaning you don’t have to remember to take your hub lock key with you in case of a flat fix. This works best if you want a deterrent so that a thief can’t grab and go with your new wheels. 

DIY Trick: this one will be useful for a number of different parts of your bike. Often, simply adding a hex wrench controlled skewer won’t keep your wheels from wandering off during the day. A DIY trick that Mike is particularly fond of is adding another obstacle to prevent easy removal of the wheel. Using a bit of glue to keep a ball bearing in a hex bolt opening prevents any tampering with your Halo Skewers, stem, seatpost clamp, etc. A cheap additional level of security that can be undone with a bit of heat or muscle.

Keeping your saddles on your bikes

A stolen bike seat can be a hassle and usually expensive to replace. Below are a couple of the many ways you can theft proof your saddle. 

Cable: Planet Bike, ABUS, and OnGuard all produce a dedicated “seat leash”, a thin cable designed to be used with a separate lock to secure the rails of your bike seat to the frame. These leashes are relatively cheap (~$5-10) but must be paired with another lock to theft-proof your seat. 

DIY Trick:  Here is an idea: use an old chain inside a bike tube. If you have an old chain lying around (or want Mike to do it for you), this is a great use of it and a cheap, cut-resistant alternative to a seat leash.

Lights, Bells and Computers

Accessories are the most stolen equipment for most bicyclists. It is almost a right of passage for new commuters to lose a set or two of lights before they find a way to secure or remove their accessories. Hopefully you got a chance to read this before you lost your first set. Mike doesn’t like to remove his lights every stop so he has found a few DIY ways to keep his lights securely attached. Here are a couple ways to secure your accessories with the least amount of energy and money.

Take Them with you: The safest option is always to take your accessories with you whenever you leave your bike unattended. Make a habit of grabbing everything off your bike whenever you lock up and use the chance to charge your USB powered rechargeable lights and bike computer.

DIY Trick: Cut your tabs! One way to slow down a would-be thief is to cut the quick-release tabs off of your light mounts. With this trick, you can leave your lights on the bike for quick stops as it makes removing the lights a much slower process requiring a screwdriver or pocketknife.

 

What to Oil and Grease? Nearly Every Piece

Riding a bike takes a lot of blood, sweat and tears. It also requires a bit of oil and grease to keep your bike moving smoothly with all the blood, sweat and tears that you’re getting on it. Have you ever question what to oil and grease? Have you ever questioned the frequency at which you should be doing such? We’ve got your post-holiday, slightly out of shape, Mechanic Mike here to tell you what to oil, grease and what to keep nice and dry. If you’ve got any questions or have a suggestion of what to cover here, leave us a message or stop by the shop anytime!

What should I oil? What should I grease? 

tri-flow2Essentially, you want to make sure all moving parts are oiled and greased appropriately. Some parts are more exposed to dirt, water, movement and friction and require more regular oil.

Chain? Oil regularly, at least every month if you ride regularly. Just remember to clean off excess oil with a rag so it doesn’t attract dirt.

Cables/ housing? Oil new cables and housing and to loosen up stiff cables. 

U-Lock? Definitely put some oil in the key slot and a bit of grease on the lock mechanism if you live in a damp climate or leave the bike locked outside. 

Brakes Levers and assemblies? Can’t hurt to oil the calipers, especially older springs and contact points. Keep the oil away from the pads.

Derailleur levers and assemblies? A couple drips of oil around springs and joints keep your bike shifting silky smooth. 

Rack bolts? Definitely put some grease on the bolt threads to make removal easier. 

Fender bolts? Grease as above. 

Pedal Threads? Your mechanic will thank you in a few years if you grease the pedal threads when you install your new set of pedals.

PhilWoodWaterproofGrease1

Seat post? Grease! (at least with aluminum and steel, carbon is a different animal) Seat posts are notorious for getting corroded in place as water seeps down the upright tubes. 

Kickstand? Does it get wet? Is it metal? Does it move? Grease or oil. 

Springs? Oil away!

Threads? Grease away!

Bearings? Grease… More info on hub overhall is available online. 

Quill Stem? Grease… Threadless? Very light grease in some cases

Nipples? Oil 

What I should not oil? What should I keep oil away from?

Carbon – All carbon components have their own requirements for maintenance. 

Handlebars – Keep the clamping surface clean for handlebars that don’t slip. 

Anywhere near your braking surface (rims or disc brakes) – This one is super important. Keep your brakes operating well by keeping them oil free. Disc brakes can become corrupted if they absorb oil or grease. 

Tires – Just like the braking surface keep oil and grease away.

Cassettes – Keep your cassette as clean as possible to get the most life out of your drivetrain. 

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And remember WD-40 is not “oil” or  and should generally never be used on your bike.

Cycle PDX Resumes Normal Hours

Fresh off the snow storm of 2015, Cycle PDX has been back open and rockin’ it on tours since Wednesday. The sun is out, and we still have a few spots left on our afternoon tour if you’ve been itching to get out.

Ride safe and see you soon!

Snow Day!

Due to our absolutely fantastic weather outside, we’ll be closed today 1/2/16 until roads are clear enough to resume tours. Stay safe, stay warm, and drink some hot cocoa for us! (We will post here again once we resume normal operation)

Happy New Year from Cycle PDX!

MIKE’S BIKE ADVICE  – Flat Tire Prevention

WHY DO I KEEP GETTING FLATS?

Over here at Cycle Portland, we fix a lot of flats! We have been hearing a good deal of confusion and frustration about frequent and repeat flat tires. Do you find yourself dealing with flat tires or slow leaks twice a month or more? Mike decided to give the issue a go for this edition of Mike’s Bike Advice to clarify why you are getting flat tires and how to prevent them in the future. If you have further questions, unusual issues or want to get a flat fixed for $13 (tube and labor), come on in to Cycle Portland and ask for Mike.

So without further ado, here are some reasons why you are getting flats:

TIRES ARE WORN, OLD, NEED REPLACING – Flats are one sign your tires no longer protect your tubes from the outside world. Regularly inspect your tires for wear (thinness, gouges, bald spots) in the tread, wear or cracking of sidewalls and sharp objects stuck in tires.


igotabike_DSCN9232bike-tireaging_cracks

 

PUNCTURE PATCHED WRONG OR SHARP OBJECT NOT REMOVED – If you like to patch your tubes make sure that you are properly placing, gluing and drying the patch. Also, make sure to inspect the corresponding spot on the tire once you find the hole in the tube. This will help you find what caused the puncture so you can remove the sharp object from the tire. Always inspect the inside of the tire and wash or wipe all debris out.

WRONG TIRES FOR TYPE OF RIDING – Some types of road/racing/cross tires are not suited to commuting through the city. The lightweight, “sticky” nature of speedy slick and cross tires means they are much worse at avoiding pieces of glass or metal. Come by Cycle Portland to hear our pick for best puncture protection and long wearing tires.

RIDING AT TOO LOW PRESSURE (PSI) – Riding at too low of a pressure can cause pinch flats in the tube in addition to potentially damaging your rim. Make sure to check your PSI before heading out the door to avoid rim strikes and snakebites in your tubes. Proper tire pressure for road bikes is generally in the 80 – 120 PSI range, Mountain bikes run at 30 – 65 PSI and city bikes are generally best at 50 – 80 PSI.

TUBE IS PINCHED FROM BEING IMPROPERLY INSTALLED – Do you find you get flats just after replacing a tube? The problem might be with your tools or technique for installing the tube and remounting the tire. When putting a new tube in, make sure the tube in completely inside the tire and that the tire is not pinching any of the tube before inflating.

RIM STRIP IS OFF OR IN BAD SHAPE – While changing your tube, take a good look at the strip of fabric tape that protects the tube from the spoke holes in your rim. If the strip is torn, pushed to the side or frayed, the pressure of riding the bike can wear or puncture your tube.

rim-tapeIMG_5716

VALVE STEM BROKEN – Both Schrader and Presta stems can break away from the tube if the stems are rocked back and forth trying to attach a pump or due to tube slip at low pressure. Presta valve cores also have a tendency to bend when attaching a pump.

WRONG SIZE TUBE – Make sure the size of your tube matches the size of your tire! Running a tube that is too big for your tire leads to folded tubes and friction. Running a tube that is to small creates space for the tube to shift, which can cause pinch flats and broken valve stems.

BRAKES RUBBING ON SIDEWALL – When adjusting rim brake pads always check that they will not be rubbing on sidewall. This creates a thin spot in the tire sidewall that can unexpectedly cause a blow out.

RIDING AT TOO HIGH PSI – Conversely, do not exceed the recommended PSI for your tires. This will cause your tubes to blowout.

AVOID DEBRIS – And always remember to avoid riding though debris, leaves and deep puddles. It’s always a good idea to avoid riding through anything where you don’t have visibility. Also, don’t ride near the curb as all the debris from the road collects there. Ride defensively and take the car lane or bike lane so you are not forced to ride in the road grit.

FIXING FLATS

Fixing flats is easy and quick once you get the hang of it. At the shop we have all the tools you need and spare tubes. A basic kit to always keep on your bike includes tire levers, spare tube or patch kit and hand pump. If you don’t have quick release skewers you can also carry an Alan Key set and/or a 15mm wrench.

At Cycle Portland you can get your flat fixed in a jiffy for just $13 boner dogs! No appointment ever required for service. Drop your bike off anytime; we are open 9am – 6pm everyday!

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P.S.

Here is what Sheldon Brown has to say about getting, preventing and fixing flats: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/flats.html

MIKE’S BIKE ADVICE – WET WEATHER BIKE CARE VOL. 2

BRAKING IN THE RAIN

If you’ve braved the rain and gone for a ride you’ve noticed that stopping can be tricky when it’s wet. You need more stopping time to come to a full rest. Decreased traction and the performance of rubber brake pads on metal rims are just a few of the obstacles you can overcome to stay safe on the road.

Change How You Brake

Slow down gradually. In wet weather, it takes longer to slow down or come to a complete stop. Start braking well before you would in dry conditions, especially when approaching a corner. This will keep you from slamming on the brakes too late, and it’ll give you enough time to slow to a safe speed.

Drag both brakes lightly on the rim when you come to a stop. This will help to clear excess water off the surface of the rim. Remember to give yourself more time and space.

Don’t brake on painted lines or smooth metal surfaces such as sewer caps, grates or rails as they are slick when wet.

Change Your Brakes

Replace old brake cables. You probably won’t realize it when it’s dry, but in wet conditions, you’ll notice that old cables make your brakes significantly less responsive. This can be a scary feeling when you’re headed down a steep descent, and it can make you lose control of your bike.

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You can upgrade your wet weather braking system by installing Disc Brakes, if your bike is compatible. Disc brakes can be more reliable long term in wet weather and for longer rides such as touring.

However, a properly adjusted set of modern V-brakes can deliver a similar level of raw braking power to a cable disc brake, given regular care and attention.

Traditional rim brakes are still the most affordable and easy to maintain and replace, Disc brakes are more expensive to purchase and can be more expensive to maintain, but offer a great proposition for those looking to stop with little effort in the rain (or otherwise).

Change Your Pads

Wet rims degrade brake pads faster because the rain attracts grit to the rim which grinds down the pads like sandpaper. Always make sure you’ve got plenty of rubber left before you begin your ride.

Gauging the thickness of your pads is made easy as most pads have lines cut down the middle of the pads. If the lines are gone it’s a good indication that need to be replaced.  If it is an older bike that has not been ridden in a while check to make sure that the pads are not cracked and brittle. Old pads will be slick, stiff and dangerous in the rain. Pay attention to how close your brake levers come to your handlebars when braking. If the levers are almost touching your brakes need to be tightened so they have more breaking power.

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Left: Old brittle pads in need of replacing Right: Kool-Stops 

If you ride in wet conditions often, you might want to consider purchasing pads specifically for wet riding. Mike loves all wet weather pads made by Kool-Stop, such as Thin Lines. Checking the safe functioning of brakes is an important part of our $30 Safety Tune, which also includes nuts and bolts check, chain lubing, and adjustment of gears and wheels. Drop by your bike for service anytime, no appointment needed! Ride safe!

 

 

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